definitely run two cables for each point. nothing beats having a cable be broken somewhere in the walls with no way to repair it.

You can get that kind of power through a Cat6a or Cat7 ethernet cable but a lower spec cable won’t work. here’s an article that talks about the limitations https://sixtytrend.com/can-cat5e-do-poe/

I’m using PoE Extractors to run some regular 12vdc stuff using existing ethernet cabling.

A couple of points to note:

• network switches won’t turn on power by default unless the receiving device asks for it using the right protocols, so you need to inject the power using the corresponding PoE injector at the other end of the cable. you can’t just snip the end off a RJ45 and wire it into things.
• Cat cable won’t take high currents, be sure to stick within the allowed range for the cable or it will melt and maybe bust your device
• there is a voltage drop over distance, be sure to calculate if you need to change your transformer as 12vdc could become 9 or lower by the time it gets to your device
• there are some really poor quality PoE injectors/extractors.
• running mains cable and having a transformer nearer the device might be simpler and cheaper in the long run.

can you ping one of the IoT devices from the HA device on that new NIC?

can you manually add a device and HA see it/add it normally?

is there a firewall routing between HA and the IoT devices that might be blocking discovery somehow?

is there a reason you can’t put your HA in that VLAN too? if it’s a segregated, non-networked environment then why not create a second network adapter for your HA and give it an address in that VLAN too?

Outdoor, Indoor? Wifi, Zigbee? mains power, battery?

Hi I have installed half a dozen Shelly 1PM Mini units around the house and they do work well. I’ve not had one fall off the wifi, and they are great with HomeAssistant. I use InfluxDB to capture data from HomeAssistant and do calculations and aggregations in the DB to get overall costs of devices. I also use HomeAssistant to automate the relays so lights come on at night etc.

Installation is a bit tricky so I tend to use IP64 rated enclosures rather than leave them in the drywall like the website says you can. I also find the mains cables a bit thick to go into the terminals and adding ferrules would make it impossible. Other than that I think they’re great.

I expect it varies depending on how often you open the door, what firmware it’s on, whether it’s MQTT or something else etc etc.

I’ve had this one (it’s the Wifi version not Bluetooth) for about four months and it claims that the battery is at 81%. I’ve not owned it long enough to say if that is a linear or exponential (or totally made up) value.

Hey, I have a Shelly window/door sensor on my bifold door. It includes a lux and temperature sensor, which i’m using to close the blinds (luxaflex/hunter douglas) if the temperature exceeds a certain level along with a high light level.

In practice where I live it is easier to close the blinds based on the current outside temperature, but the window/door sensor makes a good second check. it also prevents the blinds from operating if the door is open!