That must be why it stopped working ;-)

Does 48 hours not getting a reverse proxy working count?

It’s FreeNAS and I don’t really hoast anything but the plex server… so 48 hours.

If deleting files counts 10 days a year, if not 1 day a year.

I turned to coffee maker on from my bed this morning :-)

Yeah… I don’t think there’s any reason for concern after reading it either. I kind of assumed everything was set up this way already :-)

My gut reaction to the title was also fear.

Tried logging out and back in again?

Data export from history to a CSV file! I love that there are always features I didn’t even know I wanted until someone else thought of them ;-)

It might be a WiFi connection issue. My devices connect perfectly after I flash a new configuration, but my AP seems to reject the next few login attempts. They eventually connect, but it takes a few minutes.

So… and this is probably debatable, the point of a dedicated seed box is that there are a metric-shitton of other seed boxes on the local network (at the datacenter).

I’d argue the point of self hosting is to be able to set it up however you please. It sounds like you know what to do to be safe.

I use Mulvad for general VPN duty, though I can’t personally speak to its torrent support/speed I do see many recommend it in combination with a wireguard supporting container image. Spin a few up and let us know which ones you like and why.

I’ve yet to mess around with any of the liquid level sensing tech, so I don’t have any specific recommendations… but ESPHome has a huge array of different sensor filtering options which should really help. I think sensor noise and settling time are a lot of what complicate the task.

ESPHome has support for a few sensors that might get the job done… would weighing the tank be an option, or are you looking for something more off-the-shelf?

If they don’t trust their specifications, do you? Pick up a Kill-a-Watt or some other way to measure them.

The only thing that comes to mind is that most resistive heaters eventually fail and might draw significant additional current when they do. But you should have plenty of extra margin with a 15A switch.

Waterproof enclosure from Amazon with cable glands on everything and hope for the best. A good power supply (Meanwell or almost any knockoff) will have a thermal cut-out that will kick in before the box melts, but oversize it a by a few inches. At -30 / sub-freezing the rest of the time you won’t have an issue.

I’d add a temp sensor because I rarely even trust myself. But the spec sheet should provide some additional comfort, the last pages are usually graphs of permissible load for a given temperature.

No.

I’m going to pontificate a bit.

I get the impression that there just isn’t quite as much “just works” on offer as there use to be. In the 3ish years I’ve been playing with HA I’ve seen several of them vanish and not return. This has gone hand-in-hand with “improvements” in IoT security.

Personally I have no problem with insecure APIs on my local network. But I’m 20 years out of date, the threat landscape is infinitely more vast and people I’ve never met are looking to fuck my shit up for a fraction of 1 bitcoin ;-)

Secure local access shouldn’t really be a problem, but ultimately it will always require a non-zero amount of maintenance. Either from you (if you’re lucky) or the manufacturer (if they’re still in business).

Working off all that Zigbee is probably going to be your best bet. It just works pretty good, but I have yet to find a list of all the basics that always work perfectly for everyone. But most of it is cheap and plentiful enough that you can just try another device if needed.

Some folks seem to get away without repeaters, some don’t. So repeaters and devices don’t seem to be compatible, and that makes the notion of a self-healing automatically optimized mesh more of a theoretical ideal. Start with small test deployments and scale up gradually. RF isn’t easy, there’s going to be glitches. Devices with a graceful fallback are good… every bulb in your bedroom coming on at 3:00AM when the power hiccups may be an acceptable compromise to you, but might not be for the person you’re sleeping next to ;-)

And this has devolved into barely coherent rambling, so I’m out. Sorry I couldn’t answer your question, but hopefully I don’t completely waste your time.

Same. I figured the price would come down over time… boy was I dumb.

Who wants to pay $50 plus for a dim bulb that incapable of making saturated colors?

I found a lot of folks for whom everything seemed to just work… my experience wasn’t terrible but I did buy a few hundred bucks worth of Aqura sensors before realizing they weren’t super reliable.

So I’m kinda glad I didn’t get caught up in the Hue TOS fervor. It drives me nanners when they miss a beat ;-)

Sorry I don’t have real tips.

I’ve been using HA for a years or two now and still found Zigbee stuff difficult to troubleshoot :-)

Sounds like a much more complicated problem… maybe resistive heater would be enough? I’m assuming there isn’t any problem with the cold other than the whole thing icing over.

Better optics/camera is probably where it all falls apart… you’re not getting it out of a pre-made $8 dev board any time soon.