Yeah the nodered flow on the target device is for handling shutdown(sleep) and status reporting back to HomeAssistant, so in HA the computer is a simple switch with on/off states

Oh neat!

I made a custom solution for WOL and remote shutdown using nodered and MQTT, but this is so cleaner than maintaining a custom solution

You might want to look up SMR vs CMR, and why it matters for NASes. The gist is that cheaper drives are SMR, which work fine mostly, but can time out during certain operations, like a ZFS rebuild after a drive failure.

Sorry don’t remember the details, just the conclusion that’s it’s safer to stay away from SMR for any kind of software RAID

EDIT: also, there was the SMR scandal a few years ago where WD quietly changed their bigger volume WD Red (“NAS”) drives to SMR without mentioning it anywhere in the speccs. Obviously a lot of people were not happy to find that their “NAS” branded hard drives were made with a technology that was not suitable for NAS workload. From memory i think it was discovered when someone investigated why their ZFS rebuild kept failing on their new drive.

Another option is subpaths: xyz.ddns.net/portainer

Just one open port, to your reverse proxy (nginx or other).

The client updating no-ip with your dynamic IP is independent of the reverse proxy software.

This sounds like a FOSS utopian future :)

There’s a few projects that have started towards this path with single-click deployable apps, you could even say HomeAssistant OS does this to some extent my managing the services for you.

I believe one of the biggest hurdle for a “self hosting appliance” is resilience to hardware failure. Noone wants to loose decades of family photos or legal documents due to a SSD going bad , or the cat spilling water on their “hosting box”. So automated reliable off-site backups and recovery procedures for both data and configs is key.

Databox from BBC / Nottingham University is also a very interesting concept worth looking in to:

A platform for managing secure access to data and enabling authorised third parties to provide the owner authenticated control and accountability.

Good explanation! And thanks for the CoreHunt suggestion :)

I’m in this picture and I don’t like it

I third Proxmix

I run most stuff as Docker images inside a VM, but also a few services as LXC containers and some non-docker stuff in other VMs

One way is to make a new “entity”, that’s not actually linked to your previous temperature sensor. I’m not familiar with how to tie them together in a “device” like how ZigBee2mqtt auto discovery does.

So just add a new “sensor”/“entity”

  - name: "Sala_battery"
    unique_id: "temp_sala_battery"
    state_topic: "zigbee2mqtt/temp_sala"
    value_template: "{{ value_json.battery }}"
    unit_of_measurement: "%"

Use MQTT Explorer to listen to your ZigBee2mqtt broker topic “zigbee2mqtt/temp_sala” to get the exact field name (battery, battery_state or some such)

That’s brilliant! I always forget KDE Connect also works fine PC <–> PC, not just PC <–> Mobile

Color temperature is actually quite OK with simple remotes. Like the IKEA remote control used left and right arrows to change between stark white, warm yellow and happy medium.

Problem is non-smart bulbs with smart wall-switch can’t change color temperature. Theoretically I suppose there could be a switch/bulb combo, where the switch is Zwave/ZigBee enabled, and somehow communicate with the bulb. But I don’t think anything like that exists. It’d probably be very expensive if it did

Cheaper? :O This is the super-deluxe splurge option compared to some cheap IKEA ZigBee bulbs

Got any recommendations? ZigBee, Zwave, or something else?

One nice thing about having the bulbs smart is changing the color temperature. Is there any way of doing that from the wall-switch? It’s kinda what’s been stopping me from upgrading from smart bulbs to smart switches

The visual style is like a cartoonified version of the Ori (and the Blind Forest) visuals. It’s very pretty.

Just out of curiosity, why do you need Microsoft fonts specifically? What’s wrong with the included fonts?

Like others said it’s mostly just practice.

What helps is to align the (short) ends and hold them flat between your index finger and thumb. Use your free hand to get them in order. Once they’re in order, keep holding them still between your index finger and thumb using one hand, then use your free hand to slot on the connector

Edit: also bending them back and forth a bit will soften them up and reduce them curling in all sorts of directions. It also weakens them, so don’t overdo it (mostly only works for solid cable, the type meant for permanent installations like inside walls)

So DIY home-assistant based cloud-relay is better than custom made purpose built cloud-relay by muliti billion dollar company? xD

Which is both hilarious and a testament to the power of Home-assistant and open source (and I suppose it says something about how much Hyundai cares about their app)

Yes please consider the software, not just the form factor. Because SteamOS is Linux there is no Photoshop and Lightroom. There is however Gimp and Darktable (and Krita) which may or may not fit your needs.

Also you want to make sure you install desktop software as Flatpaks. Lke others have said, the root filesystem is read-only, and pacman repositories are old. The root filesystem gets reset on SteamOS updates, but flatpaks are installed in your home directory which persists across updates.

To be fair that guide is a lot of big command-line prompts for anybody not used to using the terminal, even if it’s all copy-paste

Wow that’s awesome! Props to etnoy for creating such a polished PR for this feature

I can’t wait to simply point immich at my existing photo structure :)

For RPi the two major causes of issues (in my experience) are low spec power supplies and low spec SD-cards.

Power supplies drop voltage when the loads gets too high, which is especially pronounced with high power USB devices like external harddrives.

SD-cards tend to get worn out or give write errors after enough writes. Class 10 SD cards are recommended for both speed and longevity. And ideally try to avoid write intensive stuff on the SD card