Sorry for the slow reply. I’m not sure if you’re even still trying to sell!
Yes, selling posts might be a little problematic.
As if we let one usual member who happens to be selling something to advertise, I’ll probably end up with a modqueue full of adverts from people running a drop-shipping operation, and people saying “but you let that guy do it”.

Lets maybe have a little trial: As you’ve got a sensible reason for selling, I wouldn’t object to a one-off post with details, your region, and maybe a link to whatever ebay sale you do.

Reminds me of the time I didn’t realise that my underfloor heating had week/weekend heat settings, and woke up to a 24 degree basement.

What’s the pricing like on these normally?

It does look a lot more solid, and less nickable!

A very quick glance at the internet put it around £700 for their home one, a fair chunk more than the Reolink one (£70 ish when I last looked).

The biggest one was probably a combo of having an anemometer, and heat/humidity sensors in each room.

When it’s cold outside, the top floor of the house (loft conversion) loses more heat. But it loses significantly more heat when it’s cold, and the wind is blowing parallel to the floor joists.

I realised that because they’re not perfectly sealed (old house), enough air pressure means that the floor void can easily hit external temperatures, meaning the rooms have cold on twice as many sides.

I will (eventually) get some suitable insulation in them to stop this.

Well done!

I too love the fact that HASS is a common platform for everything.
It makes duct taping lots of different devices together into automation so much easier.

Not just 240v, but in-wall 240v!

Not even a chance to smell the magic smoke.

I’ve had a temp/humidity temperature in all house rooms for a few years now, and it’s dead useful.

Balancing the radiators and TRVs so everything heats up evenly.

Spotting anomalies (top floor loses a lot more heat when the wind is blowing)

And setting the flow temperatures for the radiators, as I can see the rate of heating compared to outside temperatures.

For a low tech solution, you could use cold chain labels.
They indicate when a temperature threshold is breached. So you’d at least know when a vial was spoiled. They’re not cheap, mind, when you only want a few.

But I know that’s not solving the problem in the way you wanted to!

If you only need to know when a threshold is exceeded, you could make something simple using (for example) an esp with a PAYG SIM card and a temperature sensor.

Then set it up to SMS an alert when temperatures go out of bounds. And pick the SMS up in HASS (various ways). That way, you’ll only be spending a few cents each time there is an issue.

You could also use mobile data if you felt more fancy, and post straight to HASS.

I look forward to getting my hands on one of these! Just need to work out where to put it in the house first.

And possibly waiting for a POE version. But that’s a nit-pick.

Is it possible to test this out using a phone or PC? I really like the idea of local voice assist.

I’ve eliminated 2.4GHz wifi in the house for this reason.
The only downside is, I really need to get a couple more WAPs installed.

HA has been dead handy when I occasionally need to use an old device, as I can flip the second radio on from a dashboard.

I use them, and I love them.

They’re banned from the internet, and never complain.
I use both SD cards inside the cameras, and dumps over SFTP.

The general standard of integration with HASS is very good (IR control, alerts, streams, etc.)
If you want to access streams over a VPN, make sure that you configure the IP addresses manually in the app, rather than letting it auto-find (took me a while to work this out).

Doorbell cam: Lovely bit of kit. Button press and person detection hooks in nicely with HASS things.
I really like being able to answer delivery people (and be silly with visitors). 2-way audio works well in the app, I keep meaning to try integrating it with HASS now the latest version has capability baked in.

810A: Decent picture quality, the only fly in the ointment is that it uses H265 for full res, and a lot of open source things don’t officially support it.

510: Good value, and decent quality image. There is a firmware floating around that adds pet detection features too.

Hue bulbs now work on standard zigbee.
I’d have to double check that the newest ones still do, but unless Signify are being complete bell-ends, it should just work.

I switched mine over after I got fed up with that bloody hub requiring an app to do any serious config, and randomly disconnecting.
The response time seems better when using HASS too. Bulbs that are not yet paired can be easily added to the network, ones that have been paired need to be deprogrammed first.

This is how the Hue RGB bulb I have can be controlled in HA:

It’s fair to say that there really isn’t one standard yet for home automation.
You’re likely to end up with multiple radios just due to availability of products.
I started with a zigbee dongle, then got a z-wave one when I started finding products I wanted that only came in z-wave.
Then I got an SDR dongle to use 433MHz (lots of cheap gear uses 433)

I personally haven’t touched thread/matter yet.

The really nice thing about HASS is that if you can get it to talk to HASS…It can be integrated with anything else you integrate with HASS.
For example, I have some cheap zigbee push buttons.
One click toggles the hue bulbs for that room on/off. Two clicks toggles a daylight mode.
Press+Hold toggles a dim yellow mode for night.

Or for another, I have central water heating.
The toggle for heating on/off is a simple smart switch.
This is linked to a virtual thermostat in HASS, which in turn is fed by a simple thermometer that also feeds into HASS.

You can often make really nice integrations by keeping the hardware as simple as possible, then stitching it together with HASS.
Rather than buying one thing for all, and hoping it integrates well.

I’m looking forward to going over to Agile in the near future.
I was under the impression that you had to be electric only, but apparently you can have a standard gas tariff alongside. We just need to work out a few things like “how much could it cost us to make dinner during the peak?”

With a bit of luck, native RTC support means 2-way comms using reolink doorbells is close at hand.

I’ll just re-share mine from last time.
I tend to use the Horizontal Stack. On a mobile device, I just get one stack per line.
And on bigger screens, I get multiple stacks to make use of space.

General “Going out” page:

Internet speedtest page:

I’ll write a quick gist for anyone coming along:

One gas boiler in the house, each room has a smart TRV.
PIR sensor to set room presence, each window has an opening mag sensor. HASS has a general presence sensor set.

Each room’s temperature is targeted based on presence and window status:
For each room, if person is home at all, and has been in the room for 5 mins, and the window is closed, TRV to 19, boiler on if <19.
If the room presence is negative and the window is closed, drop TRV target to 16.
If the window is open, drop the TRV target to 7.

There is a little more detail that that in the article, but that’s the basics.

z-wave may be easier than expected, as I think the devices stay linked to the hardware dongle used. (This is just from memory, mind!). But if you need to change the dongle, perhaps less fun.

imo, it will be a bit of pain to get everything inside HA, but once it’s done, you’ll be inside a platform that is pretty open, and commonly used, with lots of other people (hopefully) posting up solutions to problems before you encounter them!
And because it’s software that will run on pretty much anything, you have the reassurance that even if something crazy happened, you could just reinstall an old version.

If it were me, I’d clear an entire weekend day, power off the old kit, and work away at getting HA controlling everything.

Nice to see NC becoming involved with the board.

I don’t run that much z-wave due to cost, but I’m all for improvements and tighter integration.
Especially since when I do want to spend money, ZW works very well.

Or maybe something like this:

https://www.securemeters.com/uk/product/room-thermostats/hrt4-zw-asr/

The unit with the buttons on is a simple relay, which hass can control to turn things on and off, and use a heating control with a temperature sensor.
But if you hit the button on the front, it also gives 30 minutes of on, which can be handy if the system had issues.

Or you could have a hass controlled relay, but also leave the old controller wired in on a manual switch.
So if there was a failure, you could go back to the old control by manually flipping it over.

A low-wiring way to do it would be to replace the bulbs with hue/similar bulbs, then just put a battery powered button in the location you want to have the controls. £10-ish for each button, plus however much the bulbs are.

Then just have the button set to toggle the lights on/off (you can also call different presets like dim etc by pressing and holding).
Then hass just directly sends the on/off commands to the bulbs.