Probably the latter. Doesn’t matter which it is though; they advertise both on their website.

Because I told them I used torrents. Their FAQ literally has a page with instructions for setting up torrents. Still does. I didn’t think it’d be an issue for them.

I don’t know about ‘locked’ so much as ‘hard to get running with headless linux’. I looked into it two or three times and was stymied by the various ways it went wrong.

In comparison, windscribe had me choose a port on their website, and then I used that in my docker run command and it just worked.

The strong other half of my reasoning was port forwarding being locked to GUI. I use a lot of scripts to keep my server restart process simple.

The unban was just to check if the refund process would go through. Since it didn’t then I did a chargeback.

About 8TiB upload and 2TiB download over the course of this whole mess. I don’t have exact numbers because WRT stopped counting for some reason, but I can infer based on January numbers.

Wasn’t sure if this was the right place, but I figured someone should know about this. For what it’s worth, I would actually recommend windscribe if you don’t plan on doing torrents all the time, or you have sub 1gbps internet. Just sucks that I hit their “unlimited” internet limits on my home connection.

They have a page on their site about chargebacks. They’re confidant they’ll win them, but they still ban because it costs them money. I’ve done one anyways; as far as my reading of their tos goes, I was in the right. Might as well make this experience cost both of us money, instead of just them.

Their guide for using torrents with their service; https://windscribe.com/knowledge-base/articles/using-windscribe-with-torrent-clients/

Their FAQ on bandwidth and chargebacks: https://windscribe.com/knowledge-base/articles/why-did-my-account-get-disabled/

Usually they just disable all the hdmi ports except for cable and don’t bother to lock the final hdmi port to a specific device. So long as you have a long hdmi cable and nimble hands, it’s not too much effort to just pull out the cable hdmi and put in your own.

Directly to the clients from the already self-hosted server, exactly like all the other media hosting software does. Lmao.

shouldn’t Newegg of all places

Heads up; newegg has been shit for returns for about ten years now. Their monitor return policy in particular is notorious for being bad.

Probably for video streaming. If you’re only ever downloading large amounts of read-once content, you don’t actually need to save any of it.

Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:

I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)

This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/

This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni

And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.

I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.

So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.

So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.

Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.

Don’t worry about how a video card was used. Unless it was handled by howtobasic, they’re gonna break long after they’re obsolete. You might worry about a bad firmware setup, but you avoid that by looking at the seller rating, not the video card.

there’s an argument to be made that a mining gpu is actually the better card to buy since they never went hot>cold>hot>cold (thus stressing the solder joints) like a regular user would do. But it’s just that; an argument. I have yet to find a well researched article on the effects of long-term gaming as compared to long term mining, but I can tell you that the breaking point for either is long after you would have kept the card in use, even second or third hand.

I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.

You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.

The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.

Just think of your point that they are using residential IP addresses. How do they get these addresses?

You can ping all of the ipv4 addresses in under an hour. If all you’re looking for is publicly available words written by people, you only have to poke port 80 and then suddenly you have practically every possible small self-hosted website out there.

I have the previous model. It does a great job of playing videos from my server in the other room. It technically can do YouTube, but that’s a pretty horrible experience. It can’t do any other paid streaming services.

But it does do an amazing job of local streaming. It handles most all of the audio and video codecs, and can direct stream just about any video file without too much playing around. I like mine, and definitely recommend it for anyone who also wants a trustworthy local media player.

I would like to be able to let friends connect from outside my house to stream media and allow them access so they can add films and the server goes off and finds them, extracts them, and adds them to the media server.

This is going to be the second most expensive part of this process (the first being storage). Direct streaming for one person can be done on anything that can play your chosen video quality. Streaming for other people will require at least a video card, and a processor that can handle multiple people, as well as the extra storage that other people will want to use. You can use a single pi4 for one person, but you’ll want to look at a desktop PC with a modern-ish graphics card (for the encode) if you want to share with other people.

It really depends on the model. Best to pay attention to it like the previous comment mentioned.

The best way to meet your low power requirement, which you listed as the most important, is by having flash storage. The other half of this is that used hardware is going to be worse at power management than an SBC too. It may be worth doing the math to see how long the power draw difference will take to even out the cost of using flash storage instead of magnetic storage.

The other part of this is that you could just grab a 2.5" hard drive and split the difference on price/GB. https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xCKhP6/seagate-barracuda-5tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st5000lm000 start with two, and if you run out of space, or obtain more money, add two more from a different brand.