Step 0). Decide if there’s anything you dont want on a common server.
I realized long ago that my projects sometimes stall out partway through. However some things need to just work, regardless of where I am in a project. HA is a great example of something that manages itself (so less advantage to the VM) and that I want always available, so even if I decide to go down a route like you are, HA stays independent, stays available
I’m not entirely sure what those movies are like, and don’t want to know, but ……
My Mom watches horrible Hallmark stuff constantly. As far as I can tell, every movie has the same plot, they are low quality, etc. The thing is they are simple feel good movies for her. She finds them relaxing and gets good feelings from them, perfectly appropriate for “entertainment “.
If there is any parallel here, my point is that you don’t have to appreciate them for your Mom to. Why does it matter whether you agree with the movies or not: do you love her? Do you want to help her with entertainment that makes her feel good /relaxed/entertained?
Yes, you should not be thinking about security in terms of an outside intruder here. Think about untrustworthy or potentially compromised devices.
How do you prevent these from happening, or limit what they can do? One way is to put them on a separate vlan without internet access (your HA or other hub can listen on multiple VLANs and be the gatekeeper) and without access to your computers.
That being said, for similar requirements, I found managing the more complex network to be too much hassle, and went back to a simple flat network
Not exactly the same, but I use the RM-4 with a mini-split AC in place of the remote, and it has worked well for years. You do have to place it somewhere line of site for the ir blaster but it has a very wide range
Setup was choosing a make a model, and everything mapped perfectly. In my case, it even reads the status and current temperature.
The one feature that I haven’t gotten around to trying is line power. I hate using batteries. However RM-4 also had a section on powering it directly that I wanted to try. In my case I have an Ecobee thermostat that I think I can grab power off of, and just mount the RM-4 on the wall right next to. However the batteries have lasted years so I never got around to it
EDIT: or maybe not. I have a Remotec RM-4. I don’t know if it is an ancestor to the Broadlink with the same name, but it’s a beige box. It’s local-only, with no WiFi or app
How long ago did you pull the module? I see dependency updates March 16
I don’t know if it’s true for cheap ones off Ali Express, but I always look for “appliance” plugs, as that will be easily searchable. Usually it means a 20a (in US) rated relay.
Actually, in reference to the other poster’s discussion about halogen lights, I did the same there. I have a set of halogen lights that’s pretty much at the threshold for common smart switches/receptacles/plugs, so used an “appliance switch” with a 20a rated relay, so I never head to worry about it. It’s really not worth going cheap for things that plug in
Remember that once you give the password out, they likely have the password from now on. They will always have access until you change the password.
No, a lot of local traffic is not encrypted, especially residential. No, residential probably doesn’t use much authentication or separation of privileges.
It’s also a matter of saving on the wiring. I may not be (quite) that Uncle Dave, but I really regret a few places I pulled wire for a switch loop without the extra conductor for a neutral.
At the time, I rationalized it was already an improvement over what was there and I had no immediate use for the neutral. I believe the neutral wasn’t required by local code, only recommended, or I would have done it
Of course now I’m cursing my choice, trying to decide whether I need to go back and do it over, or whether I even can practically since it’s a two person job and my buddy retired to Florida. Wiring I pulled many years ago was great for dimmers, more convenient switches, and extra three-ways, but not so great for smart switches
Edit: looks like neutral wasn’t required until NEC 2011
Yeah, if we focus on high value items, it becomes much simpler. But what if there’s a disaster like a fire? One shirt is too cheap to worry about but having to replace all your clothes is expensive, so what’s a practical way to inventory that?
Looking at my home automation stuff, really the only expensive thing is my smart thermostat and it’s nit that expensive. However all the devices add up to several thousand dollars.
Maybe there’s a sense of type and volume or something, and video or photos, that would be sufficient to inventory everyday stuff
Actually, I’d also wonder how far insurance “replacement value” stretches. So many things I got on close out deals where the nearest remaining similar brand is several time the price
I wonder if something like a picture or video is sufficient to inventory quantities and general cost, such as clothes. The number of t-shirts I have changed over time, but a week worth of Carhartt adds up
Seems like a lot of pluses
I’ve been wondering about that, since my Firestick became so shitty that I actually prefer streaming apps on my TV. Most of my devices are already on Apple, so how about this one?
So, on the home screen, can you tell which Videos are to purchase without clicking into them? Are things you subscribe to easily distinguishable from god forsaken ad infested ones?
Every wall switch I’ve seen (in US) has an attachment for a ground wire, except really ancient ones, and every “Romex” style wiring includes a ground wire
My house is an older one with steel junction boxes, so those need to be grounded, but plastic boxes obviously do not.
So, my experience may be limited but I’ve always seen switches grounded and always seen everything support grounding.
As someone further up said, it’s the neutral that is the problem. I don’t know if it’s code or convention, but older wiring tends to use “switch loops” without a neutral, while more modern wiring is “pass through” and does. Even before smart switches, this was needed for things like lighted or programmable switches
One of the features you might look for is, I don’t remember what it’s called, but direct pairing? I’m a big fan of Inovelli switches here in the US and this is one of the features I love, even though I don’t use it yet. You can configure the switch to always pass power, but act as a Zigbee/zwaveJS button, depending on which switch, then you can set up automation at your hub to take some action. However this goes a step further in that you can directly pair it with the smart bulbs, to control them directly.
Why not just use standard thermostat functionality: set the target temp a bit higher when rates are low and a bit lower when rates are high. It won’t be perfect but it’ll stay more comfortable and you don’t have to over complicate things.
One thing you don’t mention is whether you have any way to store heat, to even out the times when your heat is off. Some of this is thermal mass in the room and maybe that’s all you can do. My parents house when I was a kid had thermal storage radiators that worked really well. The heating elements were on a timer, so only came on overnight when rates were lower, but only heated the bricks or oil or whatever storage medium was inside. The radiators were essentially an insulated box so were cool to the touch. Then, during the day, the thermostat simply controlled a fan circulating air through the radiator to pick up heat as needed.
Thanks, looks interesting
Sounds more like a “bait and switch”, or your friendly neighborhood dealer saying “first hit is free”
The problem is buying means nothing about whether it is legit or whether a company decides they want it. It only means you reserved it. Any disagreements are hashed out after the fact in court. It’s not a game that individuals can afford to win vs a corp